Burglary Damage Repair in Newmarket: Secure Tonight, Repair Properly After

A damaged door is not something that can wait until the weekend. We secure the property the same day, then come back and repair it properly once you have had time to think.

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Locksmith repairing a commercial storefront door lock in Newmarket

Quick answer

After a break-in in Newmarket, the immediate priority is making the property secure again the same day: board-up or temporary hardware on any damaged opening, replacement cylinders on every affected lock, and a strike and jamb sound enough to hold. Permanent frame repair follows. We work 24/7 on 866-820-1331.

If you have just come home to a forced door, the practical advice is short. Do not go inside if there is any chance someone is still in the house. Call the police and let them attend first. Do not tidy up or repair anything until they have released the scene, and photograph everything before it is touched, because you will need those photos later.

Then there is the part nobody puts on a services page: you want the house to feel like yours again tonight, and no amount of insurance paperwork addresses that. That is a completely reasonable thing to want, and it is usually achievable. In most of the break-ins we attend in Newmarket the physical damage is confined to one door or one window frame, and a property can be made properly secure within a few hours of the police finishing.

We have been doing this work around Newmarket since 2000, across the older Main Street South homes, the 1980s and 1990s subdivisions in Glenway and Stonehaven, the newer builds toward East Gwillimbury, and small businesses along Davis Drive and Mulock Drive. What follows is what actually happens, in what order, and what it typically costs.

Making the property secure the same day

The goal on the first visit is simple: every opening closes, locks and holds by the time we leave.

Once police have released the scene, we work through the property opening by opening. Any door that was forced gets assessed for whether it can be made to latch and lock as it stands, or whether it needs temporary hardware or boarding until a permanent repair. Any lock that was defeated, drilled, snapped or that the intruder may have taken a key to gets its cylinder replaced or rekeyed, not just inspected.

That last point matters more than people expect. If a set of house keys was taken, or a handbag with keys in it, then every lock those keys operated is now an open door regardless of whether it shows a mark. Rekeying the whole house is far cheaper than replacing hardware and it closes that gap in an afternoon.

Where a door genuinely cannot be secured that day, usually because the frame is split through or the slab is bowed, we board and brace it and fit temporary hardware so the opening is closed and lockable overnight. Nobody is left with a door that will not shut.

  • Wait for police to release the scene before anything is repaired or cleaned.
  • Photograph every damaged door, frame, lock, window and strike from several distances before repair.
  • Do not throw away broken hardware, splintered trim or a damaged cylinder. Keep it in a bag.
  • Write down what appears to be missing as you notice it, over hours rather than trying to list it in one go.
  • Rekey or replace every lock the missing keys operated, including the garage side door and any shed or gate.
  • Check the windows and the basement, not only the door that was forced.

If you are locked out of your own house because the lock was destroyed rather than forced open, that is an emergency lockout as well as a repair, and we handle both on the same visit.

Board-up and temporary security

Boarding is a stopgap and it should look like one. Done properly it holds until a carpenter, a glazier or a door supplier can get to you, which in the middle of winter can be several days.

For a glazed panel we cut plywood to the opening and fix it through to solid framing, not to the glazing bead or the trim. For a door that will not latch, the options are a temporary rim lock or a surface bolt into sound timber, a hasp and padlock where appearance is not the concern, or a full board-over if the opening is unusable. For a commercial storefront on Davis Drive or Yonge Street, a full-face board with through-fixings is usually the only sensible answer overnight.

What we avoid: screwing into split wood and calling it secure, fixing a plate over a jamb that has already failed, and leaving a temporary fix in place so long that it becomes permanent. Temporary hardware gets scheduled out at the same time it goes in.

If your business was hit and you need to trade tomorrow morning, say so when you call. There is usually a way to get a shopfront closing and locking well enough to open the doors, even if the permanent repair is a week out.

Kicked jambs and split frames

The overwhelming majority of forced residential doors in this area fail in the same place, and it is not the lock. It is the strike plate area of the jamb.

A typical exterior door has a deadbolt throwing into a strike plate held by two screws about three quarters of an inch long, seated in a strike plate mounted to the jamb, which is itself a piece of finger-jointed pine nailed to the framing with a shim gap behind it. The bolt holds. The lock holds. The jamb splits, because the whole load lands on an inch of soft wood with air behind it.

Repair depends on how far the split runs. A short split can be glued, clamped and reinforced with a long steel strike box or a full-length jamb reinforcement plate that spreads the load across the framing instead of concentrating it. A jamb split through its full length, or one where the framing behind it has moved, needs the jamb section replaced. A slab that has bowed or where the lock stile is split around the bore usually needs replacing, though a solid door with damage only around the strike edge can sometimes be saved.

Long screws into framing

The cheapest upgrade in the trade. Replace the short strike screws with 75mm screws that reach through the jamb, past the shim gap, into the structural framing. It changes what the door can survive.

Full jamb reinforcement

A steel plate running most of the height of the strike side, through-fixed into framing. It turns a one-inch failure point into a distributed load.

Strike box and deeper pocket

A boxed strike gives the bolt a steel pocket rather than a hole in pine, and lets the bolt throw its full length instead of catching short.

Hinge side too

Everyone reinforces the lock side and forgets the hinges. Long screws through the hinge leaves into framing are just as important and cost almost nothing.

We do this reinforcement work on undamaged doors too, and honestly it is the better time to do it. If your house has never had a problem but the front door has original short strike screws, an hour of work now is worth more than any lock upgrade you could buy.

Cylinders, strikes and hardware after a break-in

Hardware that has been attacked is compromised even where it still functions. A cylinder that has been drilled, punched, snapped or gripped with pliers may still turn with the key, and it will not resist the same attack twice.

What gets replaced: any drilled or snapped cylinder, any deadbolt whose bolt is bent or whose case is distorted, any strike plate that has torn or deformed, and any handle set where the spindle or the lock body took the impact. What can often be kept: a sound lock body with a new cylinder, a good quality deadbolt that was defeated at the jamb rather than at the lock, and hinges that show no distortion.

This is also the natural moment to upgrade rather than simply replace like for like. If the door had a builder-grade deadbolt, a high security cylinder with anti-drill pins and anti-snap protection is a modest step up in cost and a large step up in resistance. If keys are unaccounted for, changing the locks across the whole property closes that off in one visit.

  • Replace every attacked cylinder, even one that still works.
  • Rekey every lock that a missing key operated, including garage, shed and gate.
  • Fit boxed strikes and long screws on every exterior door while we are there, not only the damaged one.
  • Check the patio and sliding doors: they are commonly the second attempt after a front door fails.
  • Do not forget the door between the garage and the house. It is frequently the weakest lock in the building.
  • Consider a deadbolt with a one-inch throw if the existing one throws less.

What insurers generally want documented

This is general guidance, not a claims process. Every policy is different, and your own insurer or broker is the authority on what yours requires.

In broad terms, most home and commercial policies expect the same handful of things after a break-in, and gathering them early is much easier than reconstructing them later.

  • A police report or occurrence number. Report the incident before you repair anything.
  • Photographs of the damage before repair, taken from a distance and close up, including the lock, the strike, the jamb and any tool marks.
  • An itemised list of what is missing, with any receipts, serial numbers, model numbers or photographs you already have.
  • Invoices for the emergency securing work, kept separate from the permanent repair invoice where possible.
  • A written description of what was done to secure the property and when, since some policies require reasonable steps to prevent further loss.
  • Details of any damaged hardware retained rather than discarded.

We provide an itemised invoice describing the work, the hardware fitted and the time attended, which is generally what an adjuster is looking for. We can also photograph the damage as we find it and pass those images to you. What we cannot do is tell you what your policy covers, whether to claim, or what your deductible makes worthwhile. Call your insurer or broker before you commit to anything beyond making the property safe, because in many cases they want to be notified before permanent repairs begin.

One practical note: emergency securing is usually treated differently from permanent repair, and most insurers expect you to act quickly to prevent further loss rather than waiting for approval. Ask them directly how they want that handled.

Burglary damage repair prices in Newmarket

Work What it covers Typical range
Emergency attendance and securing, one door Assess, make the opening close and lock, temporary hardware $180 – $340
Out of hours emergency securing Same work overnight, weekend or holiday $240 – $450
Board-up, single door or window Plywood cut and through-fixed to framing $140 – $320
Cylinder replacement, per lock New cylinder fitted and keyed $95 – $220
Whole-house rekey, keys unaccounted for All exterior locks rekeyed to one new key $160 – $340
Jamb repair and steel reinforcement, per door Split repaired, reinforcement plate and boxed strike fitted $220 – $480
Jamb section replacement Damaged jamb removed and replaced, door rehung $380 – $850
Full exterior door replacement Supply and fit, hardware transferred or replaced Quoted per door
Commercial storefront securing Board, temporary hardware, cylinder replacement $280 – $700

If you are claiming, ask us to split the invoice between emergency securing and permanent repair. Adjusters generally find that easier to process, and it makes the sequence of events obvious.

These are typical 2026 Newmarket ranges, not quotes. Overnight, weekend and statutory holiday call-outs carry a premium, frame and door replacement costs vary with construction and size, and a firm price is confirmed on the phone before a technician is dispatched.

After a break-in around Newmarket

The doors we repair vary by neighbourhood. Older homes around Central Newmarket and Main Street South tend to have original frames and undersized strikes. The 1980s and 1990s subdivisions in Glenway Estates, Stonehaven, Summerhill Estates and Bristol-London mostly have finger-jointed pine jambs with short screws, which is exactly the failure point described above. Newer builds in Woodland Hill and out toward Holland Landing and Sharon usually have better slabs and lighter hardware. Small businesses along Davis Drive, Mulock Drive and Yonge Street bring aluminium storefront doors, which fail differently again, usually at the mortise cylinder or the bottom rail.

Locksmith repairing a damaged residential entry door and frame in Newmarket, Ontario
Most forced doors fail at the jamb, not at the lock.
High security deadbolt and reinforced strike fitted to a Newmarket front door
A boxed strike and long screws change what a door can survive.
24 hour emergency locksmith responding to a break-in call in Newmarket
Securing calls run at any hour, including holidays.

Why Newmarket calls us first

Same-day securingThe property closes and locks before we leave, even when the permanent repair has to wait.
24/7, including holidaysBreak-ins do not keep business hours and neither do we.
Repair and reinforce togetherWe fix what failed and strengthen it, rather than putting the same weak point back.
Documentation for your claimItemised invoices and photographs of the damage as found, ready to pass to your insurer.
Licensed and insured, since 2000Guaranteed work from technicians who arrive identifiable.
One visit, whole propertyEvery exterior door, the garage door, the shed and the gate, not only the one that was forced.

Emergency securing across Newmarket and nearby towns

We attend break-in calls from the Newmarket base across Aurora, East Gwillimbury, Holland Landing, Sharon, Queensville, Keswick, Mount Albert, Bradford, Georgina, Sutton, King City, Richmond Hill and Stouffville. Typical arrival to a Newmarket address is 20 to 30 minutes, longer to the outer towns and in poor weather, and we will give you a realistic time when you call rather than an optimistic one.

Frequently asked questions

What should I do first after a break-in?

Do not go inside if there is any chance someone is still there. Call the police from outside and wait for them. Once they attend, do not repair, clean or move anything until they release the scene, and photograph the damage before anyone touches it. Then call a locksmith to secure the property. Notify your insurer early, since many policies want to hear from you before permanent repairs start.

Can you make my house secure tonight?

In almost all cases, yes. Even where a frame is split through and needs a proper repair later, we can board, brace and fit temporary hardware so every opening closes and locks before we leave. The permanent work is then scheduled at a normal rate rather than an emergency one. Wanting the house properly shut before you sleep is not an unreasonable thing to ask for.

My keys were taken. Do I need all new locks?

You need every lock those keys operated changed or rekeyed, but that usually means rekeying rather than replacing. Rekeying keeps your existing hardware and changes which key operates it, so the missing keys stop working. It is considerably cheaper than new hardware and can normally be done across a whole house in one visit.

The door still closes, so is repair really necessary?

Probably, yes. A door that was forced has almost always split the jamb behind the trim where you cannot see it, and hardware that was drilled or gripped will not resist the same attack again even if the key still turns. A door that closes is not the same as a door that holds. We will show you what we find and tell you honestly if something is still sound.

What does my insurance company usually want?

Generally a police occurrence number, photographs of the damage taken before repair, an itemised list of what is missing, and invoices for the work. Many policies also expect you to take reasonable steps to prevent further loss, which is why emergency securing is normally treated separately from permanent repair. Confirm the specifics with your own insurer or broker, since policies differ.

How much does it cost to repair a kicked-in door?

Emergency attendance and securing typically runs $180 to $340 in normal hours. Repairing and reinforcing a split jamb with a steel plate and boxed strike is generally $220 to $480 per door. Replacing a jamb section runs $380 to $850. If the slab itself is damaged, replacement is quoted per door. Firm prices are given on the phone before dispatch.

Can you make the door stronger than it was?

Yes, and this is the part worth spending money on. Long screws through the strike and the hinges into structural framing, a boxed strike, a full-height jamb reinforcement plate and a deadbolt with a proper throw together cost far less than a new door and address the actual failure point. Upgrading the cylinder to an anti-drill, anti-snap type is a sensible addition.

Do you attend commercial break-ins as well?

Yes. Storefronts, offices, warehouses and units around Davis Drive, Mulock Drive, Yonge Street and the industrial areas. Commercial doors fail differently from residential ones, usually at the mortise cylinder, the bottom rail or the closer bracket. If you need to trade the next morning, tell us on the call and we will prioritise getting the shopfront closing and locking.

Related locksmith services in Newmarket

We can have the property secure again today

Call 866-820-1331 once the police have attended. We will board, brace, replace the cylinders and get every opening closing and locking, then come back and repair the frame properly when you are ready.

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